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Critics Choice Vacations
Germany
This past fall, Susan was invited to sit on the Advisory Board for the German National Tourism Offices
out of New York City. In partnership to boost tourism to Germany, she toured two of the country’s most iconic cities. From the eclectic coffee and artistic scenes of Hamburg, to an exploration of the tumultuous history of Berlin, there was a lot to take in. Susan hopes her journey will shed light on why Germany should be the destination of your next European vacation. Below you’ll find some incredible places to stay, cuisine to sample, and experiences that will put the discovery of German culture at the forefront of your travels.
Hamburg
Hotels:
Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten
Situated right on the shores of Binnenalster, one of two artificial lakes within the Hamburg city limits, the Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten
is a property with lots of historic charm. The 156 refurbished guest rooms are decorated classically with crystal chandeliers, neutral tones, and simple patterns. The decor of common areas also boasts great attention to historic detail, such as the stained glass windows in the main stairwell and plaster mouldings on the ceiling of the Wohnhalle sitting room. Don’t miss the expansive Spa and Fitness
Club that occupies over 1,000 meters on the fifth and sixth floors, or the Bel Etage balcony that offers sweeping views over the lake. A special thanks
to General Manager Mr. Peters, Felix Eickhoff , Anna Ziegler and Leonie Weber for showing Susan this incredible property.
Westin Hamburg
Located just steps from Hamburg’s iconic Elbphilharmonie Concert Hall, the Westin Hamburg
is a modern property that boast some pretty fantastic views of the city skyline and port. Whether you’re relaxing in one of the 244 guest rooms, or sipping a cocktail at The Bridge Bar
(highlights here are matured drinks from oak barrels), the floor-to-ceiling windows always offer an excellent lookout over the Hafencity district below. Rooms are decorated in a simple contemporary style with neutral tones and few patterns. However, a design detail unique to this property is a vignette of frosted glass around the edges of exterior windows that creates a striking shadow effect when hit with sunlight. Also check out the hotel’s new restaurant, Fang & Feld, a “Hanseatic bistronomy” that serves down-to-earth cuisine with regional ingredients. Verena Heemann many thanks for a wonderful lunch and site tour.
The Fontenay Hamburg
The Fontenay Hamburg
is another property nestled on the shores of the city’s artificial lake, this time, on the larger Aussen-Alster side. One the property of a shipbroker in the 19th century, the Fontenay describes itself today as a “reflection of modern Hamburg” in being both open-minded and exceptionally welcoming. In Susan’s experience, the staff of the Fontenay more than embodied those qualities. Built around the fusion of three circular columns, the architecture of the building is nearly sculpture-like in appearance. The decor of the 130 guest rooms is best described as simplistic contemporary. Clean lines, warm tones, and occasional splashes of blue anchor the design. Floor-to-ceiling windows give sweeping views of Alster Lake, and every room above the deluxe tier boasts a private balcony. At the Fontenay, the goal is a seamless blend of urban and natural landscapes, and the effort to do so is evident at every turn. One of the best ways to appreciate the unique atmosphere of this property is passing part of an afternoon in the Atrium Lounge. Enjoy a coffee or tea and some good conversation under the soaring ceiling and a pretty spectacular contemporary chandelier. Stefanie Brückner, you and the team have truly outdone yourselves, simply stunning!
The Reichshof Hamburg
Another hotel near the shores of Lake Alster, the Reichshof Hamburg by Hilton
is a protected historical property with a modern twist. Completely refurbished as of 2015, the 278 guest rooms are decorated with warm, inviting tones that contrast pleasantly with contemporary fixtures and clean lines. The Reichshof also prides itself on being the ideal accommodation to both business travelers and families. Don’t miss an opportunity to dine at the Stadt Restaurant. The menu
takes a strong focus on sustainable Nordic cuisine, which is reflected in dishes like the North Sea salmon, served with hazelnut and beetroot, and spruce sprouts sorbet served with chocolate and wild berries. When you’re not enjoying the comfort of this luxury property, take to the streets to see some of Hamburg’s most iconic sites. The Reichshof is located just steps from the Deutschen Schauspielhaus and Ohnsorg theaters. Kathrin Wirth Überschär wonderful hotel thank you so much!
Tours:
Hamburg Coffee Tour
One of the highlights
of Susan’s time spent in Hamburg was a private guided tour of the city’s historical architecture, and a personalized tasting at the Burg Coffee Museum. Centered around a family-owned roastery in existence since 1923, the museum highlights the history of the company, as well as an in-depth explanation of the journey from bean to brew. The museum also offers seminars and tastings, with a special focus on single-origin coffee in lieu of blends. In addition to sampling a selection of some of the best coffees in the world, you can discover your personal taste profile and receive a sample to take away. For fans of German history and passion for a good cup of coffee, a visit to the Burg Coffee is a must to add to your vacation checklist. Thank you to Visit Berlin for their coordination and transportation. Bärbel Dahms, what a fun way to spend part of an afternoon.
Harbor Tour and the Elbphilharmonie
The next hybrid tour on Susan’s list was an exploration of Hamburg’s iconic harbor and the Elbphilharmonie, the city’s new concert hall. Highlights of the harbor tour included the historical Speicherstadt, a warehouse district known for its channel system, the HafenCity (harbor city), the Hamburger Elbbrücken and Köhlbrandbrücke bridges, and the docks of Blohm & Voss. Completed in 2017, the Elbphilharmonie
is a relatively new addition to the Hamburg skyline. Located on the Grasbrook peninsula of the Elbe River, it’s already an iconic piece of HafenCity’s diverse architecture. Lovingly nicknamed the “Elphi” by Hamburg residents, this contemporary concert hall is one of the most acoustically advanced in the world. Susan
recommends booking a ticket
in advance for the best seats. Guided tours
of the Elphi are also available for those interested in the relationship between architecture and music. Ms. Nicola Janocha thank you for such a beautiful tour.
Hamburg Beatles Tour
For the music fans out there, the Hempel’s Beatles Tour
is a must-add to your vacation to-do list while in Hamburg. Guided by tour creator Stefanie Hempel, you’ll follow in the footsteps of the Fab Four through the famous district of St. Pauli. Notable stops include Indra Club 64, Kaiserkeller, the Star-Club, and other venues where the Beatles played and carried on during their time in Hamburg. Armed with her trusty ukulele, Stefanie unravels the stories of one of history’s most famous rock bands, and even plays the iconic songs that define each location on the tour. She also wraps up the musical journey with a closing concert of some of the Beatles’ most famous hits. According to Susan, if you love, or even just like the Beatles, this tour is definitely worth checking out. Stefanie Hempel, you have found your niche in life and was so much fun to share your passion.
Discovery Dock Hamburg
Susan rounded out her tours with further exploration of Hamburg’s HafenCity at the Discovery Dock. This experience, that relies on elements of virtual reality, opened in late 2019 after just nine months of development. Using a creative combination of projections, live simulations, as well as lighting and sound effects, the daily functions of the harbor are brought to life in a way that’s entertaining and easy to understand. During the 50-minute experience you have the ability to stand next to a container ship in a dry dock, see eye to eye with a whale, work as a crane operator, and even support customs by searching for smuggled goods. An insider tip? Combine your Discovery Dock ticket
with a harbor cruise to save 30 euros between the two experiences. This was truly a fun and educational few hours, thank you Raphaela Künzle.
Meal
Vlet an der Alster
Situated in the Alster Arcades and near the Jungfernsteig promenade, Vlet an der Alster
is a restaurant specializing in Hamburg cuisine. With a name that taken from old High German that translates to “canals in coastal towns,” it makes perfect sense that this establishment overlooks one of the city’s main canals. With a strong focus on regional products, the menu
rests heavily on fresh produce and meat products. Whether you go light with the fresh cucumber salad, or hearty with pasture-raised veal schnitzel, what you order will be rooted in the traditions of the city. A huge thank you goes out to Michael Otremba, CEO of HAM Tourism, and Silke Walter of HAM Tourism for their hospitality.
Berlin
Hotels
Regent Berlin
Once in the German capital of Berlin, the first hotel on Susan’s list was the Regent Berlin. Set in the heart of the city’s Mitte district overlooking the picturesque Gendarmenmarkt Square, this five-star property is the epitome of what a luxury hotel should be. The 159 guest rooms and 39 suites are decorated classically, with warm tones and Biedermeier furniture. It’s no wonder Susan referred
to the Regent as her “home” during her stay. With a French balcony attached to each guest space, plentiful in-room breakfast, and the “Haven with a View” program that brings a sommelier right to your door in the evening, you might find it a bit difficult to leave! Another program run by the Regent that puts culture at the forefront is the “Poet’s Haven.” Where the hotel sits today was once an artists’ haven known as Lutter & Wegner. Revisit the works of the poets and writers that once exchanged ideas there, along with a selection of appetizers and regional beer and wine. A huge thank you also goes out to General Manager Claus Geisselmann and Maria Hoffmeister. Susan will be back!
Das Stue Berlin
The Das Stue Hotel
is a five-star gem tucked away near the iconic Zoo Palast Berlin. Essentially translating to “your living room” in German, the atmosphere of this boutique hotel is tranquil, and you’ll quickly notice how easy it is to feel at home. Despite the building’s historic exterior, rooms at Das Stue are contemporary in design, and based off of warm color palettes accented by bold pops of color. 16-foot ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows make the rooms light and airy. With panoramic views overlooking the nearby Tiergarten park or zoo, you might just forget you’re in the heart of Germany’s largest city. Other unique features of this property include a private entrance to Zoo Palast Berlin, and a Michelin-starred dining experience at the hotel’s restaurant, Cinco by Paco Pérez, and maybe Susan’s
favorite, a striking cascading modern light fixture in Das Stue’s entrance. Many thanks to Jenny Griffith for her time and attention showing Susan around.
Hotel de Rome
The last property on Susan’s list
was another property in Berlin’s Mitte district, the iconic Hotel de Rome, a Rocco Forte hotel, is located in a building that was once a bank. Despite all the modern amenities one could ask for, what makes this hotel unique is its commitment to retaining historical details. The entrance to the hotel spa
is through an original bank vault door, while bullet holes and shrapnel from WWII are preserved in the walls. However, the individual decor of the 108 rooms and 37 suites blends the historic with the modern. Clean lines and contemporary fixtures coexist peacefully with cool tones and simple patterns that keep things classic. Don’t miss a chance to spend an evening on the Hotel de Rome’s rooftop terrace. Take in sweeping views of Bebelplatz and sip on one of the specialty cocktails, such as the “Touch the Sky,” a refreshing mixture of Belsazar Rosé Vermouth, strawberries, and champagne. This property also is a fan favorite in Berlin. Many thanks to Rene Schmid for his time show casing the hotel and hosting the GNTO meetings.
Tours:
The Reichstag
While in the city, Susan had the opportunity to tour a variety of both historical and iconic landmarks. The first on her list was the Reichstag, the German parliament building. (See the “Meals” section of this blog for more about the fabulous lunch Susan enjoyed during her visit.) In addition to admiring the quintessential 1890s architecture, there’s lots of visitors can put on their must-see list. The building offers tours
on parliamentary history, exhibitions
featuring the work of German artists, and sweeping views
of the Berlin skyline from the rooftop terrace and additional information on parliamentary history in the glass dome. Keep in mind that visiting the dome and terrace requires advanced registration for security reasons. However, the extra step is more than worth it for the experience.
The Feuerle Collection Art Gallery
One of the highlights of Susan’s time in Berlin was a visit to the Feuerle Collection. This curated exhibition of collector Désire Feuerle’s contemporary, Southeast Asian, and Chinese design is displayed over 6,000 square meters of a former WWII telecommunications bunker. The artistic conversation in this private museum spans from 200 B.C. to today, and encourages visitors to reflect on ancient art through a contemporary lens. In short, the artistic past and present may just have more in common than you think. For an extra dose of culture, consider adding an incense ceremony
onto your reservation. Originally reserved for the elite of Chinese society, this authentic experience combines the burning of rare types of incense, all in the setting of a uniquely artistic atmosphere. There really is nothing quite like it elsewhere in Berlin.
Video Bus Tour
Perhaps the most unique tour Susan took while in Berlin was a bus tour that featured a video presentation of the city’s colorful history. Highlights of the film included Kaiser Wilhelm II waving to Berliners from the balcony of the city palace, crowds saluting Hitler in front of the Reich Chancellery, and building of Potsdamer Platz. A special focus was taken on the city’s most infamous landmark; the Berlin Wall. The video explores the rise and fall of the wall at Brandenburg Gate, and what’s happened in the 30 years since its destruction. How did its existence change the landscape of Berlin, this Especially, what’s happened in the 30 years since its destruction. This amazing tour ended at the Brandenburg Gate with the famous Berliner lunch curry wurst and champange catered by The Curry Wolf.
Berlin Hohenschlonhausen Memorial Tour
The Hohenschönhausen Memorial
is a powerful remnant dedicated to preserving the dark side of Berlin’s history. This former Stasi prison housed political prisoners over a period of 44 years between 1946 and 1990. Today, you can take a tour with contemporary witnesses (our guide Lothar Schulz for a former prisoner and now gives tours in 7 languages. Chilling!) that will help guide you through the prison’s tumultuous past. Large sections of the building have been preserved, so it’s possible to get a fairly clear idea of what conditions were like when the prison was active. Additional highlights include a permanent exhibition titled, “Incarcerated in Hohenschönhausen – Witnesses of Political Persecution,” which displays over 300 photos and artefacts to illustrate the daily life of inmates, as well as “Stasi in Berlin” that depicts the impact of state repression on the city.
Chamäleon Theater Berlin Meet & Greet
Since its inception in 2004, the Chamäleon Theater’s
speciality has been showcasing contemporary circus productions from all over the world. While located in a historic ballroom in the center of Berlin, the acts that grace its stage constantly push the boundaries of the traditional circus performance. Called “New Circus,” this new art form blends dance, music, theatre, and acrobatics to create something unique. The Chamäleon hosts talent from all over the world. During Susan’s visit,
she was able to meet the cast of the Out of Chaos show, which hails from Australia. Several shows have runs at once, so there’s usually an experience to suit anyone’s interests. A big shout of of thanks to the Chamäleon Theater Berlin especially Hendrik Frobel (Director) and David Handlos (Sales Assistant) for a terrific and amazing night.
All tours Susan enjoyed during her time in Berlin were coordinated and arranged seamlessly by Visit Berlin.
Gastro Rallye
Susan rounded out her culinary journey in Berlin with a Gastro Rallye
food tour. Lead by world-renowned guide and founder Henrik Tidefjärd, participants get a chance to explore the hidden corners of Berlin’s ever-evolving culinary scene. Tour destinations are not revealed in advance, so you can expect this experience to be a bit of a wild ride. Gastro Rallye’s motto, “We are not sauerkraut,” is a promise that wherever this tour happens to take you, the food you sample will be anything but traditional. Simply choose your beverage preference in advance (either wine, beer, or soft drinks) and buckle up for an engaging culinary adventure that’s played host to big names such as Adele, American Pie star Tara Reid, and Madonna’s daughter, Lourdes Leon.
In Conclusion...
Susan hopes that her time exploring Berlin and Hamburg will give you an idea of all these culturally rich cities have to offer. From restaurants with sweeping views and contemporary theater, to historic hotels and following in the footsteps of the Beatles, there truly is something for everyone.
A huge thank you goes out to all the guides that showed off what makes their cities so special. Warm appreciation to the German National Tourism Office
(Petra Hedorfer, Ricarda Lindner, Rosi Bathija and Team) for their hospitality and coordination of the meetings and events for months in advance, Visit Berlin (especially to Joyce Bernitt and Inka Rehahn for your countless hours of coordination, you are rockstars), Burkhard Kieker (CEO visitBerlin) for an amazing week in this magical city, Hamburg Tourismus GmbH (Silke Walter and Wiebke Eckmann - well done, great job) and Hamburg is on the radar and a giant thanks to all of the amazing hotel partners and friends previously mentioned. What a treat to see your cities up close and personal. Last but not least to the amazing group of professionals who sit on the Advisory Board who welcomed me with open arms: Ricarda, Paula, Ninan, Sandy, Joseph, Steve, Ann, Jennifer, Steven, and Terry. What an honor to share in this week with you.
Like so many other parents this Fall, my husband and I became “Empty Nesters”. Our baby girl, and youngest of three was heading off to college and we were faced with the reality of being alone for the first time in 26 years. We decided that this was a life milestone that we should observe, rather than dread. We had spent years devoting endless time and energy to our children and now they were all out in the world as healthy, happy, productive members of society. We had much to celebrate. So, after dropping our daughter off at college we traveled to Montana’s Paradise Valley and spent a few days at Sage Lodge to mark this special occasion. Montana’s Paradise Valley starts near Livingston, which sits on I-90, and stretches south along highway 89 towards Yellowstone National Park. It is the major river valley of the Yellowstone River and is flanked by the Gallatin and Absaroka Ranges. Highway 89 was the original entrance into Yellowstone National Park, although there are now two additional entrances, one each in Montana and Wyoming. Along with its unmatched beauty and world-class fly fishing on the river, the valley also offers other natural wonders such as several natural hot springs.
Ernest Hemingway once described Switzerland as “a small, steep country, much more up and down than sideways, and stuck all over with large brown hotels built on the cuckoo clock style of architecture.” Susan’s recent travels between Geneva and Zurich proves that a lot has changed in the Swiss hotel scene since Hemingway’s observation. While she has lots of experience setting up pre- and post-river cruise activities and private trips in the area, this “self-imposed” familiarization was to acquaint herself with Virtuoso’s Swiss properties. Susan’s excited to share her thoughts on this diverse list of hotels, as well as the historic cities they call home.
With Paris and Rome, London forms the trifecta of must-visit cities for those first taking the dive into European culture. A hub of history, politics, architecture (both very old and very new), and the arts, London has a little bit to offer everyone. This November, Susan had the opportunity to tour over a dozen of the city’s best boutique hotels so you know where to stay during your visit. In addition, Susan also toured some of the charming villages that surround London that are perfect for a day trip, or quick weekend, to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. She hopes her exploration of this British metropolis will help you know where to start when planning your first (or next) European getaway.
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