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Critics Choice Vacations
Switzerland
Ernest Hemingway once described Switzerland as “a small, steep country, much more up and down than sideways, and stuck all over with large brown hotels built on the cuckoo clock style of architecture.” Susan’s recent travels between Geneva and Zurich proves that a lot has changed in the Swiss hotel scene since Hemingway’s observation. While she has lots of experience setting up pre- and post-river cruise activities and private trips in the area, this “self-imposed” familiarization was to acquaint herself with Virtuoso’s Swiss properties. Susan’s excited to share her thoughts on this diverse list of hotels, as well as the historic cities they call home.
Hotels:
Le Richemond
Situated in the heart of Geneva, Le Richemond
is an iconic city landmark with a reputation for attracting more than a few famous faces. The place to see and be seen is Le Bar. Some notable visitors include Elton John, Elizabeth Taylor, and Mick Jagger, and many have a signature cocktail named after them on the drink menu. On the second Wednesday of every month, Le Bar
transforms for Speakeasy Night, a themed event based on the underground clubs popular in the 1920s. Each of the 109 rooms and suites at Le Richemond are decorated classically with bold pops of color and cool color palettes to liven up the decor. Many of the rooms also offer guests sweeping views of Lake Geneva. Also not to miss is Le Spa
(See the theme here?) by Sisley. Especially known for their skincare treatments, it’s the perfect place to unwind after a long day of work, or play. A huge thank you also goes out to Director of Sales, Héloïse Deparisse, for Susan’s relaxing first stay.
Beau Rivage Geneva
Located practically next door to Le Richemond, the Beau Rivage Geneva
is another lakefront property with a legacy extending over 150 years. It’s easy to believe that this hotel was once a palace, as its regal atmosphere has been carefully preserved. The decor of the lobby is characterized by intricate floral designs, soaring marble columns, and elegant lighting. These design elements extend further in the 72 rooms and 23 suites, where classical furniture and soft color palettes are paired with contemporary patterns and modern amenities. Not to miss are the Beau Rivage’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Chat Botté, and the incredible views of Lake Geneva’s jet d’eau. With generous hospitality typical of the Swiss, many have fallen under this hotel’s spell. Susan thanks Sales Manager Héloïse Barret for organizing her visit.
Four Seasons Geneva
Situated right near the Pont de Mont-Blanc, the Four Seasons Geneva
is a classic luxury property with stunning views of Old Town, as well as the lake and far off Alps. The city’s first hotel, it remains the accommodation of choice for anyone who desires a stay where no attention to detail has been spared. The Pierre-Yves Rochon-designed guest rooms are often styled around a single color, and used extensively in the fabrics, bedding, furniture, and accessories. Other highlights of this property include a rooftop spa
with unbeatable views of Lake Geneva, as well as Michelin-starred restaurant Il Lago, which specializes in innovative takes on Italian gastronomy, such as Chef Sena’s scallops paired with Jerusalem artichoke, Oscietra caviar, and white truffle.
La Réserve Geneva
This gem can be found in a residential area just three miles from the Geneva city center, La Réserve
has all the privacy of a hotel far from the hustle and bustle of the city, but without the distance. The defining feature of this lakefront property is Spa Nescens. Whether your focus is relaxation with massage, or beauty with an anti-aging facial, there’s a treatment perfect for every guest. The decor of the 73 rooms and 23 suites at La Réserve is dominated by clean lines and warm hues, giving each guest space a distinct homey atmosphere that draws inspiration from African lodges. Guests can also explore five different dining options just on the hotel grounds. The Loti
offers diners dishes that allow them to travel to diverse destinations, while the Michelin-starred Tsé Fung
focuses on elevated Cantonese cuisine. A big thank you goes out to Guest Experience Manager Adrien Amafroi-Broisat for his hospitality during Susan’s stay.
The Ritz-Carlton Hôtel de la Paix
A new Virtuoso property situated in the Geneva city center, the Ritz-Carlton Hôtel de la Paix
is at once classic and contemporary. It’s location close to iconic attractions makes it the perfect home base to truly get to know the city. All of the rooms offer guests sweeping views of Lake Geneva or Mont-Blanc Square. Recently renovated, guest spaces are decorated simply with neutral color palettes to create an atmosphere that’s distinctly tranquil for being in the heart of one of Switzerland’s largest cities. Unique amenities on the property are also worth mentioning. Some include Restaurant Fiskebar, a Nordic fine dining restaurant, a classic cocktail bar, and a Philippe Pascoët chocolate shop
in the lobby. Susan
also enjoyed several tours organized through the Ritz-Carlton, including a wine tour, as well as an exploration of a Laurent Ferrari Watch manufacturer. She thanks Sara Simiele for her hospitality.
Beau Rivage Lausanne
Since 1861, the Beau Rivage Lausanne
is often classed as one of Europe’s best hotels. Characterized by exceptional levels of service, an elegant atmosphere, and a reputation for attracting diverse clientele, you almost wish the walls of this historic property could talk. Rooms are decorated classically with simple furniture, pastels, and floral patterns. Suites offer balcony access with sweeping views of Lake Geneva, as well as individually curated decor that lends a personality to each space. Another highlight of the Beau Rivage includes two Michelin-starred restaurant Anne-Sophie Pic, featuring cuisine built on classic family recipes and local ingredients. Between 2012 and 2014, renowned French designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, also supervised a redesign of all rooms, leaving his mark in his selection of pastel hues and artfully placed mirrors that draw the calming atmosphere of the lake outside into the heart of the hotel. While the grounds of the Beau Rivage feel far away from the bustle of any city, it’s located right in the heart of Lausanne. Susan thanks Director of Sales Thierry dal Magro and Director of International Sales Morgane Doucey for organizing her stay.
Royal Savoy Lausanne
The Royal Savoy Lausanne
is a centrally located five-star property known for its stunning Art Nouveau architecture and spacious private park. While the exterior of the building evokes a Lausanne of the past, the interior and a newly opened wing boast all the contemporary comforts guests could ever need, or want. This is a property for those passionate about culture, heritage, and history, while still enjoying modern facilities. A highlight of the property includes a 1,500 square meter (or over 16,000 square foot) on-site spa, complete with indoor and outdoor pools, treatment rooms, a “lady’s only” spa area, and a 24/7 fitness facility. For those more interested in indulging in a libation or two, the Lounge Bar,
located in the heart of the hotel, is the perfect place for socializing and sipping on an expertly crafted cocktail. The Cigar Lounge
also offers guests the option to “rent” a cigar box personalized with their initials. A huge thanks goes out to Deputy Director of Sales & Marketing Hassan Koubeissy for organizing her site tour.
Mount Pilatus
After leaving Geneva, Susan had the opportunity to take a day tour up Mount Pilatus, a mountain massif that overlooks Lucerne. At its highest peak, known as Tomlishorn, the mountain reaches a staggering 7,000 feet in elevation over the lake below. It’s also home to the steepest cogwheel train in the world. First commissioned in 1889, it reaches a gradient of up to 48 percent along its route from Alpnachstad to its terminus at Pilatus Kulm. Access is occasionally restricted given the weather and time of year, but Susan was still able to enjoy (and capture) some of the breathtaking views Mount Pilatus is known for. Some things all visitors should bring with them? A good camera and a healthy sense of adventure. Susan thanks Sandra Amstein of Bucher Travel
for organizing her tour.
Baur au Lac Zurich
Nestled in the heart of Zurich, Baur au Lac Zurich
has been a fixture of the city’s hotel scene for over 175 years. The property is set in its own park with waterfront and mountain views, but is just minutes from the Paradeplatz financial district and Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s famous shopping street. Guest rooms at Baur au Lac are individually designed, ranging from Art Deco to Regency in style, and always accented with bold pops of color and contemporary art. Not to miss at this property is the new restaurant, Baur’s, which effortlessly blends the cozy atmosphere of a traditional brasserie with a unique contemporary flair in both the design of the turquoise dining room, and on the menu. There you’ll find modern takes on culinary classics, plant-based dishes, and bold experimentation. Susan thanks Director of Sales Britta Steinkopf for her hospitality.
Dolder Grand Zurich
With a legacy extending back to 1897, the Dolder Grand
has long been an iconic Zurich landmark. Perched on a hill about 20 minutes outside the city center on the edge of the Adlisberg forest, the views from this property are second to none. Whether you stay in the main building, or in one of the contemporary wings, rooms are spacious with clean lines and soft color palettes. The main building also has six historically protected rooms carefully restored to their original glory. In addition to the breathtaking views of the Zurich skyline, the main draws at the Dolder Grand are arts and leisure. The hotel boasts a robust collection of artwork from creators as diverse as Andy Warhol and Salvador Dalí. Guests can tour
the works on display with an iPad guide provided at reception. For those more interested in athletics, the property sits just off its own golf club. With so much to offer its guests, the Dolder Grand has also racked up quite a few impressive accolades. The Restaurant was awarded two Michelin stars, while SpaFinder magazine awarded the Dolder Grand Spa the “Best Spa in Switzerland.” Susan thanks Managing Director Mark Jacob, Anna Roost, Markus Granelli, and Vanessa Binggeli for their hospitality.
Widder Hotel Zurich
Situated in the heart of Zurich, the Widder Hotel
is a 49-room boutique hotel approximately a half-mile from the city’s main train station. Meticulously designed by a female architect over the course of a decade, every detail about this property is fun and unique. The building itself dates from the 12th century, and in every room that medieval heritage coexists peacefully with contemporary design. Each of the guest spaces are individually decorated, and possess features as unique as antique tiled stoves, frescos, and grisaille murals depending on which you choose. At the heart of the hotel is the Widder Bar & Kitchen. After closing this past summer, Chef Tino Staub is back with a menu that takes you on a wild culinary journey with a distinct Asian flair, such as the steamed bun filled with Swiss duck, kimchi, and kumquats. It’s impossible to ignore the charm of the place, from the mismatched chairs to the playful cuisine, it’s an ideal place to spend a few hours with some good company. Susan
thanks Sue Ferguson with JMAK Hospitality
for organizing her site tour.
Hotel Storchen Zurich
Just steps from the iconic Town Hall Bridge, the Hotel Storchen Zurich
a luxury waterfront property hundreds of years in the making. It was first described as an inn in the city’s tax records as far back as 1457! Today, the Hotel Storchen boldly mixes the classic with the contemporary in its design and cuisine. While each of the 66 rooms overlooks a different corner of historic city center, what they all share is a modern ambiance enhanced by warm colors, floral patterns, and metallic accents. Guests can also enjoy four different on-site dining options that are a reason to stay in their own right. From the seasonal creations of La Rôtisserie, the unique craft cocktails at Barchetta
and the Italian-inspired dishes at Piazza, to the refreshing atmospheres of the Terrace
and The Nest
rooftop, there’s a venue to suit everyone’s taste. Again, Susan
thanks Sue Ferguson with JMAK Hospitality
for organizing her tour of the Storchen.
Bürgenstock Hotel & Resort
Located outside the city of Lucerne, the Bürgenstock Hotel & Resort
wows guests before they even arrive. A 25-minute ferry journey across the lake followed by a cogwheel train ride up a hill to the hotel sets the stage for the grandiose atmosphere that permeates this property. Besides the incredible views, the draw here is health and wellness. Susan recommends reserving an entire day to experience one (or both) of the spas
and all they have to offer. The resort consists of four hotels, each with its own distinct personality. The Bürgenstock
is urban and chic, with floor-to-ceiling windows that offers guests breathtaking views of Lake Lucerne. The Waldhotel
focuses on wellness and sustainability. From seasonal cuisine, natural wood elements, and a tranquil atmosphere, this hotel is for those who are seeking a peaceful retreat. Opened in 1903, the Palace Hotel
is classic and elegant with its striking Art Nouveau architecture. Don’t miss a visit to the museum gallery that details the property’s colorful history. Finally, Taverne
1879 pays homage to the classic Swiss chalet. With only 12 guest rooms, a stay here is peaceful and intimate. With such a striking combination of variety and attention to detail, it’s no wonder Susan’s places the Bürgenstock Hotel & Resort in her top five favorite properties anywhere in the world. A huge thank you goes out to Director of Sales Caroline Winter, and Medical Sales Manager Marina Oshchepkova for her incredible stay!
Park Hotel Vitznau
Along with the Bürgenstock, Susan’s travels in Switzerland added another hotel to her top five list. The Park Hotel Vitznau
is another waterfront property across the lake from Lucerne. Behind the century-old walls of the hotel is a completely renovated interior where nostalgic Swiss charm and modern amenities coexist peacefully. With only 47 individually designed guest rooms, including many with balconies overlooking Lake Lucerne, a stay here is calming and intimate. The Vitznau characterizes a stay within its walls into three main themes: Wine & Dine, Art & Culture, and Health & Wealth. What impressed Susan the most was by far, the hotel spa. Some of its unique features include a heated outdoor infinity pool, a Finnish sauna, Kneipp foot baths, and even an ice grotto that rests at a chilly 14 degrees. Susan thanks Residential Manager Moritz Dürler and his incredibly attentive staff for her out of this world (albeit way too short) stay
, as well as Sandra Amstein of Bucher Travel
for organizing a site tour she was able to join along with their amazing team.
Schweizerhof Bern
Located in the heart of Bern, the Schweizerhof Bern
is a bustling property conveniently located next to the main train station. Susan describes the hotel as a “place to be seen.” After all, Peter Ustinov, Grace Kelly, and Albert Schweitzer have all stayed here. The 99 guest rooms are decorated simply, with bold use of black on the walls, fabrics, furniture to anchor the design. In addition to being right in the middle of a hip and happening location, the highlights of this property include a cigar lounge
, a lobby bar, and large on-site spa. Don’t miss an afternoon relaxing on the hotel’s Sky Terrace
that offers 360 degree panoramic views of the city skyline. Through the end of February, an enclosed space, called the “Tubbo”, offers guests the same views, but out of the cold. Warm up with a traditional meal of raclette or fondue as you watch the sun go down. Susan thanks Fabienne Hoebenstreit for organizing a site tour.
Tours:
Zurich City Tour
While in Zurich, Susan enjoyed a city tour with the Swiss Office of Tourism. One of the city’s unique features is the seamless coexistence of a robust cultural scene with a famously idyllic landscape. From the iconic Old Town with its preserved architecture, to the ever- changing modern neighborhoods that surround it, there’s a scene to suit any urban explorer. Art and history enthusiasts have over 50 museums and 100 galleries to choose from, while nature lovers can enjoy Zurich’s ideal location on the lake, and easy access to nearby parkland and Uetliberg Mountain. The city also boasts a vibrant nightlife for those who don’t want the fun to stop once the sun goes down. Visit the Zurich Tourism’s website
for more information. Thanks goes out to Aurelia Carlen for her coordination of our tour.
Geneva City Tour
During her time in Geneva, Susan took a self-guided city tour
to check out some major landmarks no visitor to the city should miss. Situated on the southern tip of Lake Léman and surrounded by the Alps and Jura mountains, Geneva is a major hub of diplomacy and banking. In addition, both the Red Cross and the Europe’s United Nations are headquartered there. French influence is also abundant in the architecture, art, language, and gastronomy. Some highlights of Susan’s tour included the Reformation Wall, which details individuals and events of the Protestant Reformation, the UN Building and Park, the Jardin Anglais with it’s iconic floral clock, and the Geneva Fountain.
Laurent Ferrari Watch Tour
Susan also had the opportunity to explore the Laurent Ferrari
watch production while in Geneva. Set up through the Ritz Carlton
, this private tour of the company’s workshop delves into the products that made the brand famous, lets participants view their small, luxury collection, as well as details the steps behind how each watch is designed and produced. All participants, which is limited to eight people and guided in French and English, also have a chance to meet the owners, and receive a special souvenir once the tour is complete.
Bern City Tour
Susan rounded out her visits of Swiss cities with a guided tour
of Bern. The Swiss capital sits at a bend in the Aare River. While one of the country’s smaller cities, it’s rich with iconic landmarks, and with origins dating back to the 12th century, a history that begs to be explored. Much of the preserved medieval architecture can be found in the Altstadt (Old Town). Some highlights from Susan’s tour included the Bundehaus (Federal Palace) where the Swiss parliament meets, as well as the Französische Kirche (French Church) and Zytglogge, a medieval tower, that both date from the 13th century. Susan thanks Christina Ziegler and the Bern Office of Tourism for organizing the tour, and guide Denise O’Gorman Aebersold for showcasing all this historic city has to offer.
In Conclusion...
Susan hopes that her exploration of the Swiss hotel scene gives you a better idea of where to stay during your next (or first) alpine getaway. It’s not often a hotel ranks into her top five in the world, but this list has two, which is certainly saying something. A huge thank you also goes out to Mirko Cappdanno
from the Swiss Office of Tourism out of California for his assistance in crafting Susan’s agenda, giving travel tips, and his overall support of Critic’s Choice Vacations clients. A giant thanks to Nikki Link in helping to craft this massive amount of information into something pleasant to read.
Like so many other parents this Fall, my husband and I became “Empty Nesters”. Our baby girl, and youngest of three was heading off to college and we were faced with the reality of being alone for the first time in 26 years. We decided that this was a life milestone that we should observe, rather than dread. We had spent years devoting endless time and energy to our children and now they were all out in the world as healthy, happy, productive members of society. We had much to celebrate. So, after dropping our daughter off at college we traveled to Montana’s Paradise Valley and spent a few days at Sage Lodge to mark this special occasion. Montana’s Paradise Valley starts near Livingston, which sits on I-90, and stretches south along highway 89 towards Yellowstone National Park. It is the major river valley of the Yellowstone River and is flanked by the Gallatin and Absaroka Ranges. Highway 89 was the original entrance into Yellowstone National Park, although there are now two additional entrances, one each in Montana and Wyoming. Along with its unmatched beauty and world-class fly fishing on the river, the valley also offers other natural wonders such as several natural hot springs.
This past fall, Susan was invited to sit on the Advisory Board for the German National Tourism Offices out of New York City. In partnership to boost tourism to Germany, she toured two of the country’s most iconic cities. From the eclectic coffee and artistic scenes of Hamburg, to an exploration of the tumultuous history of Berlin, there was a lot to take in. Susan hopes her journey will shed light on why Germany should be the destination of your next European vacation. Below you’ll find some incredible places to stay, cuisine to sample, and experiences that will put the discovery of German culture at the forefront of your travels.
With Paris and Rome, London forms the trifecta of must-visit cities for those first taking the dive into European culture. A hub of history, politics, architecture (both very old and very new), and the arts, London has a little bit to offer everyone. This November, Susan had the opportunity to tour over a dozen of the city’s best boutique hotels so you know where to stay during your visit. In addition, Susan also toured some of the charming villages that surround London that are perfect for a day trip, or quick weekend, to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. She hopes her exploration of this British metropolis will help you know where to start when planning your first (or next) European getaway.
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